tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:/posts Images, Photography, Postmodernism 2017-01-10T10:35:14Z tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1121945 2017-01-10T10:26:45Z 2017-01-10T10:29:00Z Golden Globes (!) red carpet puts final nail in 'end of cleavage' theory

The January 8 Golden Globe awards got publicity for many things, but among its most prominent features was a glittering array of designer dresses on the red carpet. At least 50% of them also featured a  stunning display of cleavage, finally putting into touch the 'boobs are out' theories reported in our November 26 post. A few are featured here.

Left to right: Emily Ratajkowski, Kaley Cuoco, Naomi  Harris, Sofia Vergana, Pinkara Chopra, Rees Witherspoon, Jessica Biel, Blake Lively, Felicity Huffman, Gina Rodriguez, Hailee Steinfeld, Kristin Cavallari, Mandy Moore, Charissa Thompson and Jessica Chastain

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1120745 2017-01-05T15:00:26Z 2017-01-10T10:35:14Z Is nudity next for red carpet celebrities?

CHRISSY Teigen may as well have been completely naked at the American Music Awards, according to an article by Nadia Selemme

She claims the swimsuit model took the “nude” dress to a new level, sporting no knickers and a dramatic side-split held together with a safety pin, that went right up to her torso and left almost nothing uncovered. Like, nothing. 

Red carpet sexy: Chrissie Teigen (1-4), Bella Hadid, Ciara (5-6), Miley Cyrus, Gigi Hadid, Jaime Alexander, Jennifer Lopez, Kendell Jenner, Lisa Rina, Melanie Brown, Melody Thornton, Mikaela Scaefer, Naomi Campbell, Nicole Trunfio, Olivia Munn

“Apologies to anyone harmed mentally or physically by my hooha,” Teigen joked on Instagram.It has become almost standard for celebrities not to wear bras or knickers on the red carpet.

Adrienne Bailon reveals all

Teigen's performance comes after a crescendo of very revealing red carpet  performances over the last few years, in which celebrities compete with one another to get media attention by wearing more and more sexy dresses, which means less and less. Adrienne Evans and Sarah Rile call this 'cold intimacy', a  deliberately sexualised performance to maximise publicity and attention.

Today, far from being really shocking, it's normal and generally accepted.

Gigi Hadid also had a go at a naked dress on the same red carpet atb the AMA awards wearing a sheer lace Cavalli dress, teamed with nude underwear. But compared to Teigen’s outfit, Hadid’s was tame.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1119655 2017-01-02T14:37:00Z 2017-01-05T15:38:38Z Lara Stone on her body shape the perils of the catwalk In a Christmas (2016) interview with Net a Porter magazine Lara Stone expressed surprise at being a successful fashion model because, she says, she can’t walk in in heels and falls over all the time. Previously in an interview for Video Fashion (see below) she claimed that she fell over because her feet were so little compared with the big size of the shoes. In the interview she explains that for years her agency sent her for castings and she rarely got picked, but then she was fortunate to get a 2008 contract with Calvin Klein to do photographic modelling, and then it all started to come right. 

She adds: ““I don’t know if my body shape helps or not. I guess people are always looking for something different so maybe it makes my life easier.” Please, “don’t know” and “maybe”!! The reality is much more simple. 

The fashion industry became fascinated with her body. Images by Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Inez and Vinoodh, Terry Richardson, Victor Demarchelier, Mart and Marcus, Juergen Teller, Luigi and Iango

The tide for Lara began to change in the mid ‘noughties because fashion modelling became much more about photographic modelling, and because of her body shape – and the fact that be she did dozens of shoots nude. It was the sensation about her nude body that got her the lucrative Calvin Klein ads. Lara really started to get noticed when she did a 2006 shoot with Terry Richardson for Sisley.

The shoot was smouldering but by later standards was relatively modest. A second breakthrough came in a February 2007 shoot with Mario Testino for French Vogue. This included an image of her with her knickers around her knees and a lot on show. And this – a nude vagina – in a magazine your grandmother might read having her hair done! Later that year, in the 2007 the S/S issue of Purple.france, there were sensational nude shots of Lara by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. This is probably some of the greatest nude photography ever done and went all over the Internet in a flash.

After that Lara did repeated shoots with Mert and Marcus, including the famous Love magazine shots in an issue which also featured other top models naked. Mainstream fashion magazines began publishing Lara nude or topless – the industry become fascinated with her body. 

Statuesque images with implants. Left to right, Daria Werbowy (1-4), Elle McPherson (5-6), Michelle Buswell (7-9). Pics 10 and 11, Michelle Buswell pre-implants.

Ealoner Morgan in The Guardian says that the fashion industry ignores big boobs – only a handful of top models have them and none of their products are suitable for larger breasted women. In fact Lara came after a trend towards top models getting implants. Top stars of the late ‘80s and ‘90s like Elle MacPherson and the evergreen Naomi Campbell had implants and then had them out. Daria Werbowy also had big boobs for a time and did some stunningly statuesque work with them in, notably the 2011 Pirelli calendar, shot by Karl Largerfeld. Look at the Victoria Secret stars, most of whom have walked as fashion models – no big boobs?! There are of course top designers who insist on self-like ultra-skinny and flat chested models, but there is now a much wider range of body types including big boobs. Part of that is the proliferation of swimwear and lingerie catwalk shows, bringing new levels of eroticism into the modelling mainstream.

Push it ad for Calvin Klein


Little feet


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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1119288 2016-12-30T18:07:50Z 2016-12-30T20:05:38Z Fashion models, singers. celebs continue hyper-sexualised crossover in Love Advent Calendar

Sexy fashion mag Love Magazine has composed an extraordinary 'Advent Calendar' (all videos) to end 2016, highlighting the sexualisation of images in fashion, music and glamour. The division between glamour models and fashion models is disappearing in the growing acceptance of nudity and near nudity. Love Magazine features the extraordinary cast including Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid, Doutzen Kroes, Irina Shayk, Heidi Klum, Stella Maxwell, Emily Ratajkowski, Abbey Clancy, Hailey Baldwin, Sofia Richie, Cara Delevingne, Alessandra Ambrosio, Adriana Lima, Lily Aldridge and Candice Swanepoel. See all the videos on Youtube (link at bottom of page), but sample a few here first. 

ELSA HOSK

SARA SAMPAIO

BELLA HADID

 

 
EMILY RATAJKOWSKI
 

DOUTZEN KROES

 

RITA ORA



BARBARA PALVIN


ALEXIS REN


GO HERE FOR ALL 30 VIDEOS
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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1118816 2016-12-28T15:26:54Z 2016-12-28T15:28:09Z Fashion model/glamour model crossover continues with ultra-nude Lui Calendar

Fashion models Anais Mali, Elsa Hosk, Hilary Rhoda, and Barbara Palvin (above) were recruited for the 2017 Lui calendar, by David Bellemere. The trend towards fashion model nudity continues, pictures below.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1115394 2016-12-23T16:49:28Z 2016-12-23T17:00:45Z Despite Victoria's Secret's new modesty, fashion/glamour model interchange continues This year’s Victoria’s Secret show in Paris was less than outrageous. Indeed a new modesty was in the air, with the most extreme outfits of some recent years not repeated. Of course it’s a lingerie show, so it’s not what someone would wear in the street. But in the past few years thongs have gone places they haven’t gone before, showing bits that would, without attention, have been covered in pubic hair. 
Left to right: Romee Strijd, Adriana Lima, Doutzen Kroes, Irina Shayk and Hilary Rhoda. Extreme right Bregje Heinen this year

That’s the new knowing eroticism in many lingerie and swimwear shows: the swell of a big cleavage, promising just unseen pneumatic wonders, today borders on being banal. More rousing is the partially revealed pubis, pointing to the shaved vagina adjacent. In this year’s Miami Swimwear Week, thigh high suits revealing a spectacular amount of pudenda were all the rage: below is Lee and Lani from July 2016 and Koco Blaq from 2015, both of which show the trend. 

 

  Why Victoria’s Secret have decided to tone down the eroticism is unknown. But overall the trend towards the overlap in the role of fashion model and glamour model continues apace. Victoria’s Secret is somewhere in the middle. Below, two recent fashion model recruits to online nudity, Hana Jirickova and Hilary Rhoda, show what’s happening. There are now no negative consequences for a career in the fashion world to appearing online and in magazines naked. 
New recruits to fashion model nudity

Not everyone does it of course, but it’s accepted as normal, and indeed some of the platforms for this nudity are within the fashion world itself. This trend is shown in reverse: glamour models going into the fashion world. Irina Shayk was this year recruited to the Victoria’s Secret show. VS top models Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima, have taken to walking on European fashion catwalks. Wilfredo Gerardo’s S/S 2017 New York show used spectacularly endowed glamour models to show off his risqué frocks, but of course many glamour models are way too short to make it into the fashion world. Nude glamour model Emily Ratajkowski has shown how full frontal display and spectacular assets can get you into fashion modelling and acting.

 
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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1109512 2016-11-26T14:33:52Z 2016-12-15T17:42:45Z Recent celeb pics disprove 'end of cleavage' myth
Below we're publishing an article that appeared in the UK Guardian, apparently proving that the cleavage was going out of fashion. Inspired by an article in the fashion 'bible' Vogue the 'end of cleavage' claim is based on wafer thin evidence. A brief look at a few pics from this year's red carpets and runways show the opposite. Pushed up big boobs on display is still the standard move to gain paparazzi attention an d this more column inches in the press. Take a look at the gallery below before proceeding to the article.

From top left: New pic: Jourdan Dunn at the London Fashion Awards Dec 2016: Then - (1) Heidi Klum, (2-3) Emily Ratajkowski, (4-5) Bella Hadid, (6) Courtney Staunton, (7) Ashley Benson,  (8) Kendall Jenner, (9-11) Paris Hilton, (12-14) Lara Stone and Irina Shayk, (15-17) Teyana Taylor, (18) Ta'Rhonda Jones (19) Sevyn Streeter (20-23) Kim Kardashian, (24) Naomi Campbell, (25) Frankie Essex, (26) Miranda Kerr, (27) Beyonce, (28) Katy Perry, (29) Scarlett Johansson, (30) Sofia Vergara


The end of the cleavage: breasts piled together like cream buns do not make a subtle statement

Hoicked-up bosoms in push-up bras have all but vanished from fashionable circles – and the more natural ‘70s boob’ is making a comeback

Jess Cartner-Morley Guardian G2 1 November

There is something missing from fashion in 2016. It hasn’t been there in any of Alicia Vikander’s Louis Vuitton romantic, softly scoop-necked gowns, on the premiere tour of The Light Between Oceans. It wasn’t there on the best-dressed lists of the Met Gala in May, which were dominated by Beyoncé in high-necked skin-toned latex. It didn’t happen at Cannes, where Bella Hadid slayed all pretenders to her fashion throne in a red satin dress with a deep V to the waist, the smooth line from navel to waist accentuated by her swept-up hair. It was nowhere to be seen at the Oscars, where Jennifer Lawrence’s black lace Dior gown was free of obvious cantilevering.

 Bella Hadid at Cannes. Photograph: Samir Hussein/WireImage

“Whatever happened to the cleavage?” asks the new issue of Vogue. The squished-together, hoicked-up presentation of bosoms has all but vanished from fashionable circles. Scaffolding breasts under the chin and framing them with a low-cut top, which has for decades been a shorthand for allure – the four-four-two of getting dressed up for a night out, if you like – is over. The go-to after dark neckline from catwalk to high street this year is a straight horizontal line that exposes the shoulders. The must-have Gucci blouses on Net-a-Porter have elaborate pussy bows that demand to be fastened around the neck. Any self-respecting It girl of the moment knows that the photo the paparazzi want is the one in gym leggings and a crop top, exposing this year’s must-have ab-crack. Eva Herzigová, whose 1994 Wonderbra advert (“Hello Boys”) did more than any other image to put cleavage at the bullseye of sex appeal, has this year chosen for her most high-profile appearances a pie-crust collared white blouse under a trouser suit for the Vogue centenary party, and a buttoned-up denim coord at the Venice film festival. I think we can safely call that a goodbye.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1101449 2016-10-24T18:24:27Z 2016-10-26T22:46:03Z Everybody’s doing it: new research crushes ‘bush is back’ myth

In 2014 Cameron Diaz published The Body Book which repeats the lame argument that women’s pubic hair somehow has an important health function. This chimed in with a series of articles in women’s magazines proclaiming ‘the bush is back’ and that the ‘Brazilian’ and ‘Hollywood’ style of partial or total hair removal was a fad that is passing. The latest is an article in the ultra-posh UK magazine The Tatler which proclaims the bush is ‘back in fashion’: the age profile of the magazine might be gleaned from an accompanying article – “What to do when your Beaver turns Grey(the obvious conclusion – shave it off – is rejected)

There was no evidence for this trend being real, despite it having been pushed for more than five years. The most extensive research was done in 2010 by Indiana University academics led by Debby Herbenick. They showed that most women up to the age of 50 opt for partial or total hair removal. Even for the 50+ age group,  total pubic hair removal  is given as 11%, and partial hair removal is 33%.

The latest report by the same team- on US university students – is utterly astonishing, revealing that total pubic hair removal is the dominant style among women students . The idea that it’s just something forced on women is outdated.

Fashion models and celebrities rock the Hollywood and Brazilian. (L to R) Cris Urena, Natasha Poly (2-3), Michelle Buswell, Lara Stone (5/6), Tuuli Shipster (7/8), Anja Rubik, Britney Spears, Catherine McNeil, Tyra Banks, Daisy Lowe, Kim Kardashian (14-15), Charlie le Mindu catwalk models (16-17), Missy Rayder, Sveta Utkina, Morgane Dubled, Loulou Robert and Zora Star.

Another fact gleaned from the statistics is that the number of students reporting no pubic hair removal is much smaller than the number who say they’re currently sexually inactive. People not having sex lately are also tidying up down there.

Here are some of the amazing statistics (figures rounded to nearest whole number) when students were asked about the last four weeks:

Usually had no pubic hair:  Women 50%, Men 19%

Sometimes removed all pubic hair, but sometimes kept some: Women 26%, Men 22%

Usually removed some pubic hair but not all of it, Men 24%, Women 15%

Trimmed pubic hair but did not remove it: Women 6%, Men 22%

Did not remove any pubic hair: Women 4%, Men 13%

Among women therefore the number who had removed all their pubic hair at least once in the last four weeks was 76%. Another 21% had removed some hair or otherwise tidied up down there, but 4% had kept an intact bush. Only a small number of all-hair Hollywood removers had done it just once: 44% had removed everything six or more times, about 28% 11 times or more

Among men 41% had removed all their pubic hair in the previous four weeks, another 45% had removed some of it or trimmed it.

Overwhelmingly the favourite method of hair removal was shaving. Only about 5% of women had waxed all or some of their hair or had used a hair removal cream.

Hollywood and Brazilian enabled swimsuit styles. Lee and Lani, Etam, Miniamle Animale and the aptly named brands Hot as Hell and Filthy Haanz.

Most people who shaved had experienced some itching or irritation, but for most this was a minor inconvenience rather than something that required medical attention.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1100445 2016-10-20T16:00:02Z 2016-10-21T15:37:54Z Lingerie targets sexy as brands fight for market share

The main objective of all lingerie brands is to make women happy, through feeling more sexy and self-confident. Right? If you were for a microsecond on the verge of believing that, you are serially naïve. The main objective of these brands is to make money, lots of it. And the bigger brands are responsible to shareholders who want profits and dividends now!

The world market for lingerie is estimated to be $30 billion by 2020, and some estimate say it is already at that level.  Victoria’s Secret has at least an astonishing $6 billion of that market, with profits in the last few years at over $1 billion.

Actually since the crash in 2008, lingerie sales have held up, and even increased a little. The opening of the Chinese market has been a big factor. Most big brands are international in scope, especially mega–makes like Victoria’s Secret and Etam. And there are now hundreds of brands all trying to find a niche in the market.

Targeting sexy:  Etam Lingerie show, 10th October 2016 Paris

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1099417 2016-10-17T13:37:49Z 2016-10-21T15:38:31Z That's How They Got Famous!

Celebrity Stardom and the Sexualised Image - Emily Ratajkowski, Kate Upton and Miley Cyrus

Good looks have generally not been an obstacle to celebrity success for female singers, dancers or actors. But in the past it tended to go along with a minimum amount of talent. Today this is not really true. Looks are an essential ingredient – indeed the essential ingredient. In a society of sexualised images the way female celebrity works and what it’s for has changed. For many celebrities looks, and their highly sexualised display, are the whole point.

Thousands of paparazzi photos zoom round the world daily and the competition for attention is intense. Getting your photos in the papers and magazines - and especially online – is the key to continued fan attention and success. And the key to that most often is to compete in the sexiness stakes.

It is often the highroad to fame and fortune. The three examples we outline below show this – Kate Upton, Miley Cyrus and Emily Ratajkowski. Miley Cyrus is slightly different because she was mega famous as Hannah Montana before her managers launched her new sexualised persona around 2008. Her new sexualised persona launched her into the celebrity stratosphere of course.

Here’s how they used in-your-face sexiness to become famous.

Emily Ratajkowski

Treats images by Tony Duran and Steve Shaw

Emily Ratajkowski was signed by Ford models at the early age of 14, with catalogue work in mind. She also hot some small TV parts, but stuck to modelling. By the age of 20 she was mainly a lingerie model. Her real breakthrough came with the launching in 2011 of the ‘art house erotica’ magazine Treats! She did two shoots with Tony Duran and then in March 2012 a sensational shoot with Steve Shaw. The full frontal images of this, showing her style was Hollywood and not Brazil, went viral bigtime. They were shared hundreds of thousands of times. This was the real breakthrough, not the subsequent appearance in Robin Thicke’s Blurred Lines video: Thicke of course had come across Emily through the Treats! pics.

 

Emily Ratajokowski by Steve Shaw
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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1098912 2016-10-15T13:25:11Z 2016-10-21T15:38:56Z The Victoria's Secret look and what it says about modern sexuality

Gemma Vicenza

The 'look'. Tall, skinny, implants and absolutely no body hair

In 2014 Agent Provocateur caused outrage with its ‘Perfect Body’ advertisements, and eventually withdrew them. For a start, few women conform to the looks of AP’s ‘Angels’ if only because there are not that many women who are 5’ 10”+.  Isabelli Fontana is on the short side for an AP model and she’s 5’9”,  but Karlie Kloss though is 6’ 3”.

The models are ultra-slim and nearly all have breast implants. In the AP shows all the white models are sprayed with two layers of tan.

The Victoria’s Secret look is not one that most women can aspire to ever reach – obviously. But they represent an ideal type, a culturally determined model of the most desirable. In truth nearly every era has had such an ideal type, it moves with the culture. In the 1950s and ‘60s it was the Marilyn Monroe-Gina Lollobrigida-Jayne Mansfield look, emphasised a curvy figure summed up by the statistics 36-24-36, and again huge boobs.

Because of the crossover with lingerie and glamour modelling, lots of fashion models have gone for the implant look, some unimaginable 30 years ago. Some of them have had them in for a period and then removed them – Daria Werbowy, Elle MacPherson, Naomi Campbell and Michelle Buswell are all in this category. Top VS models Alessandra Ambrosia and Adriana Lima and moved into haute couture fashion and have kept their implants.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1097319 2016-10-11T10:52:23Z 2016-11-04T23:17:14Z Brazil's Beauty Obsession Classic Brazilian, sexy on the beach


Brazil has a more open attitude towards sexual difference and display, but what’s on view in the Sambadrome conforms with Mirian Goldenberg’s assessment of the body obsession of middle class and rich Brazilians.

She says: “In Brazil, and particularly in Rio de Janeiro, the sculpted body untouched by unwanted signs of age (wrinkles, age lines, stretch marks, cellulite, and spots) and excesses (fat, flaccidity) is the only one that, even without clothes, is decently dressed (Goldenberg and Ramos, 2002).

“In this sense, it might well be that, not only is the body more important than clothes, it is itself the true clothing; the body – and not clothes – is what must be displayed, moulded, manipulated, sculpted, sown together, chosen, built, embellished, imitated. It is the body that falls in and out of fashion. Clothes, in this case, are merely an accessory feature in the exhibition of this tuned (and toned) to fashion body.” (The Body as Capital, Understanding Brazilian Culture, Mirian Goldenberg Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro) Moreover: “According to American anthropologist Alexander Edmonds (2002), in the last two decades, Brazil has experienced a boom in the ‘beauty industry.’

 Brazilian Carnaval girls

“Employment in the beauty services sector has almost doubled, and women in Brazil spend a hefty amount of their salaries with ‘beautification.’ Brazil is the world’s fourth largest market for cosmetics. Veja magazine (July 14, 1999) reported that ‘nine out ten girls in Brazil want to be a model.’ In January2001, another piece in Veja titled ‘Brazil, empire of the scalpel’ informed that Brazil had surpassed the United States as the country with the largest number of plastic surgeries per capita.”

Brazil's model elite: Izabel Goulart (1-3), Raquel Zimmermann (4-5) Renata Kuerten (6-8), Ana Beatrtiz Barros (9-11),  Ana Claudia Michels (12-14), Adriana Lima (15-18), Alessandra Ambrosio (19-20), Barbara Fialho (21-25), Gisele Bundchen (26), Gracie Carvalho (27-28), Isabeli Fontana (29-30), Lais Ribeiro (31-32)

In fact the beauty norms are very much those of middle-class women from Rio, Sao Paulo and the state of Rio Grande dol Sul’s capital Porto Alegre, where a much higher percentage of people are of German origin and European looking.

The Stylist website says: “Brazilian women are emerging as a dynamic new force in beauty. Stylist investigates how the world’s most beautiful country is setting the trends. “There’s a reason why Gisele Bündchen has reigned as the world’s highest earning model for the past seven years, eclipsing even Kate Moss (according to Forbes magazine, she’s the supermodel most likely to become a billionaire).

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Archie Flyte


The sexualisation of celebrity is so common that we take it for granted today. Female singers wear ultra-sexy outfits that look like lingerie and –sometimes – appear near naked in photo shoots; film stars parade their cleavages and more on the red carpet; and fashion models appear topless on the catwalk and often nude in fashion magazines.

Not all performers will go there. Adele refuses it point blank and stunning British movie and stage actress Gemma Arterton nowadays won’t go there, despite her formidable natural assets.

Red carpet sexy. Pic 1 is Rosie Huntington Whiteley.Pics 2 and 3, Korean actress Oh Hye-In at the 2011 Busan film festival.  Pic 4 is Rumor Willis, 5 and 6 are Gemma Arterton, 7 is Susan Sarandon, 8 is Amber Rose, 9 Jennifer Lopez, 10 Kendall Jenner, 11 Kim Kardashian, 12 Emily Ratajkowski, 13 Is Rita Ora, 14 Maitland Ward

But most female performers accept it because, well, it’s the way to get noticed and a good career move. Sexy sells and making money is what the entertainment industry is about.

Of course sexiness among female performers goes way back, and especially made advances in the 1950s and ‘60s. With singers, Madonna in the 1980s pushed sexuality as a marketing ploy. What’s different about today however is that sexiness is often not just something that’s added to a celebrity’s performance to spice it up, but sexuality is often the main content of that entertainment and that celebrity.

Take Kim Kardashian. In TV reports of her recent robbery in Paris, she was routinely referred to as a ‘reality TV star’. In fact she mainly sells things online and on Youtube, but her ability to do that is because of her appearance, in nude photos or in public displaying outsize boobs and a humongous bottom. Without nudity and sexiness, and the gossip that goes with it, Kim Kardashian is celebrity toast.

Without sexualisation, nudity and the gossip around it, the celebrity of Kim Kardashian, Amber Rose and Paris Hilton celebrity is toast

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1095886 2016-10-04T13:05:58Z 2016-10-07T12:26:58Z Big Nudes 6: Luigi and Iango

How the 'children' of Helmut Newton took over fashion  photography

Top models for Lui featuring Carolyn Murphy, Jourdan Dunne, Toni Garrn, Edita Vilkeviciute, Natasha Poly,  Isabeli Fontana, Anja Rubik, Daria Stokous and Mariacarla Boscono

Luigi Murenu and Iango Henzi are a fashion photography duo, professionally referred to Luigi and Iango. Their eminent success to date derives from the fusion of both of their creative backgrounds. Stylistically the duo are most often compared with Mert and Marcus. Their work is characterised by intense focus and fine details, vivid colours and uncompromising eroticism.

Early Life

Natasha Poly

Murenu was born in Sardinia in 1964 and began his career as a hairstylist in Paris in 1983 where he worked simultaneously on editorial pieces and in salons. His interest for hair stems from a deep passion,“some want to express themselves through how they look, but I opted to show my personality through other people”. Murenu’s client list includes Armani, Gucci, YSL, Viktor & Rolf, Chloe, Givenchy, Prada, Helmut Lang, Roberto Cavalli, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Versace,while celebrities he’s worked with include Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Britney Spears, Scarlett Johansson, Julianne Moore, Charlize Theron, Jennifer Lopez, and Madonna. “I love Luigi – he’s a creative person with a very good eye and I support his work – Madonna”. Murenu continues to act as Kérastase Paris’ artistic director and is a several-time recipient of Marie Claire's prestigious Prix D'excellence de la Mode .

Henzi was born in Günsberg, Switzerland in 1979 where he began his career as a classical dancer working with choreographers such as Serge Golovine, Ivan Dowski and Peter Hawkes. After an injury sidelined his dancing career, he moved to study photography in order to continue his artistic expression.

Naomi Campbell
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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1093642 2016-09-27T14:53:05Z 2016-10-04T13:42:23Z Body modification in the postmodern Western world

Clarissa Atkins

Models with breast implants make it onto the high fashion catwalk. Daria Werbowy, Irina Shayk, Lais Ribeiro, Alessandra Ambrosio and Gisele Bundchen. Beyonce and Lara Stone are implant deniers. 25,000 Americans went for butt augmentation last year, cf Kim Kardashian above

People have engaged in body modification throughout history and what counts as extreme is culturally determined. What we see today is a major move towards body modification, linked obviously to the trend towards individualism and physical beauty as a central concern of society.

In the West today, in addition to cosmetic surgery,  there are three major forms of body modification are:

Body building to get ‘ripped’ muscles among both men and women

Tattoos and piercing

Body hair removal  (mainly) among women

Boob Jobs

By far the most popular form of cosmetic surgery is breast implants. According to Pacific Heights more than 5 million American women had had breast implants by 2010. Nearly 280,000 had this procedure in 2015. Bottom implants are much less common in the US and Europe, although it’s a growing procedure. 25,000 Americans had some form of butt augmentation in 2015 – much less than in Brazil and Argentina.

Boob jobs are of course a major trend in the entertainment industry and have been for decades. Over the last 20 years many fashion models have opted for implants, although they often don’t keep them. What used to be the preserve of glamour models and lingerie models had moved on the high fashion catwalk, partly because some former glamour and lingerie models have made the jump – like Irina Shayk, Lais Ribeiro and Alessandra Ambrosio. Still there are some hardcore augmentation deniers, like Beyonce and Lara Stone. Not many people believe them.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1092417 2016-09-22T14:10:51Z 2016-10-07T12:28:52Z Models of postmodern eroticism no 4: Lingerie as outerwear and display

Gemma Vicenza

Ashley Roberts of Pussy Cat Dolls, Miley Cyrus, FKA Twigs, Ariana Grande, Beyonce, Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Amber Rose



 

 La Perla lingerie as outerwear. First two models are catwalk leaders Natasha
 Poly and Izabeli Fontana

A couple of months back I made my first trip to Britain’s largest retail mall in Stratford, by the London Olympic Park. The buzz arouund the Victoria’s Secret outlet was no surprise, but I was amazed by the teenage throng at Anne Summers. In the window were two mannequins dressed in see-through bras under shiny plastic jackets. Jackets not to be worn in the bedroom but in clubs (maybe) and parties (definitely). Underwear is becoming outerwear, and the swivel from lingerie being just functional to full-on erotic display is massive.

Ten years ago top British chain store Marks and Spencer said 80% of its knickers sales were g-strings. That’s where Brits’ aunts and grannies shop! It won’t be that now because of the advent of boy shorts, still sexy but much more functional: but there’s still a massive market for thongs. The point is of course that there’s no point in wearing them if no one is going to see you (un)dressed that way. It points to big changes in erotic display and also in how people have sex. Either way – thong or boy shorts – you just can’t wear them without a Brazilian or Hollywood pubic style.

Lingerie sales make a lot of money. In 2010, there were $29bn worth of lingerie sales; 27% of that was in the United States. According to Simon Warburton:

“On average, a woman in western Europe or the US will buy two bras and five pairs of briefs per year, while her wardrobe will contain between five and eight bras, as well as six to ten pairs of briefs. Real lingerie enthusiasts will have considerably more.” (1)

He says that when 2016 figures come in  the worldwide lingerie market will be $32 bn, with strong growth in ‘emerging markets’ like India and China.

 
La Perla Milan 2002

As a thing that ordinary masses of people could do, lingerie really started at the end of the 18th century. According to the Random History website, until modern times the majority of ordinary women wore no underwear. In the 19th century the major item of women’s underwear was the old fashioned corset or ‘basque’. This was meant both to provide uplift to the breasts and hold in the tummy.

They were extremely uncomfortable, but mass lingerie changed completely when the brassiere was invented by Mary Philips Jacobs:

“Corsets became smaller, less cumbersome and allowed for freer movement and easier breathing. There was more support for the breasts and for the first time in the history of fashion, the "brassiere", (French for support,) was introduced and patented by Mary Phelps Jacobs. Also:

Agent Provocateur

“When the men went off to fight in the First World War, women found themselves the breadwinners of their families. Their new identities beckoned the demand for more practical undergarments. Brassieres had to be light enough to be worn in just about any industrial work condition. This led to the use of   lighter and more breathable fabrics. Style became functional and focused on support over appearance.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1087483 2016-09-07T14:17:56Z 2016-10-24T14:13:30Z Models of postmodern eroticism 3: Fashion model, glamour model, lingerie model – new norms of body display

Gemma Vicenza

Nearly all Victoria's Secret models have done high fashion runway. Left to right, Doutzen Kroes, Hilary Rhoda, Alessandra Ambrosio, Elsa Hosk, Isabel Goulart, Lais Ribeiro

If you look up ‘difference between glamour model and fashion model’ in Google you’ll get some hilarious results. One site seriously tells young aspiring models that in glamour photography it’s ‘inner body parts’ that photographers concentrate on (appendix? pancreas?). The difficulty that people have precisely defining the difference today is a result in major changes in what it’s acceptable for models to wear (or not), which reflects huge changes in the acceptability of body display.

Back in the day glamour: Fiona  Richmond, Sam Fox and Jenna Jameson, with their modern day equivalent, Joanna Krupa

Back in the day – say 30 years ago – the difference was pretty clear. Fashion models walked up and down on the runway and got photographed for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in haute couture. Glamour models did nude stuff for Playboy and Penthouse. Lingerie catalogues (few shows then) were done by glamour models. ‘Saucy’ topless pics in British pop newspapers and elsewhere were also done by glamour models like Sam Fox, Jenna Jameson and Fiona Richmond. Glamour models mainly had big boobs, and fashion models mainly didn’t. Fashion models were tall, glamour models often weren’t.

The dividing line was pretty clear. There are of course modern day glamour models - 'pin-ups' - who make no pretence of being fashion models. A well known example is Joanna Krupa, whose posters are on the walls of thousands of  American teenage boys' bedrooms. But for many models  the dividing line it’s much less clear and the categories are overlapping. Look at the Victoria’s Secret show. The overwhelming majority of its recent models have done runway for the top fashion houses. Devon Windsor, who with big boobs and glitzy dyed blonde locks looks like a stereotypical glamour model, but in fact she’s walked for many of the main fashion houses. Fashion models have invaded the lingerie scene big time. And some of the VS stalwarts like Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio have made the leap to runway, in Europe and Brazil.

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Fashion erotica. Lara Stone 2014 models dress by Marc Jacobs, skirt by Marni and bracelets by Chloe and Christian LaCroix
Bare behind Stella McCartney

Of all the models who have taken fashion erotica to a new level in the past 10 years, it’s Lara Stone who shot to the fore and pushed the boundaries most. Previous generation models like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell had got serially bare breasted and flashed pubic areas smudgingly, but from 2006 Lara Stone got it all up front, through a series of shoots, most notably with Mario Testino, Inez and Vinoodh and Mert and Marcus.

Early shots by Richardson, Teller, Testino, Hoffmeyer and Sorrenti

In many of her nude shoots, particularly some images by Inez and Vinoodh and Mert and Marcus, her conformity with modern styles of little to zero body hair is much more blatant than anything done by Naomi Campbell or Kate Moss. Lara was one of those models who helped cause a rising criticism, for example Carin Franklyn who said in the Daily Mail that “fashion is becoming a branch of soft porn”, a view of media sexuality rejected by postfeminists like Fien Adriaens and Ozlem Sandikci.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1086276 2016-09-03T13:36:51Z 2016-09-03T18:06:04Z Big Nudes 5: Steven Klein

Part 5 of our series on how the 'children' of Helmut Newton came to dominate fashion photography

 

Steven Klein's 'Push It' video for Calvin Klein, featuring Lara Stone 

Steven Klein is a true ‘child’ of Helmut Newton, incorporating high levels of surrealism, a vid artistic fashion imagination and totally wild levels of eroticism. Many of his nudes – which as a gay men tend to be male homerotic studies – are way outside fashion. But he is hugely popular with models, performer and fashion houses. 

Kim Kardashian for Prada

For Prada he did the famous recent shoot with a very nude Kim Kardashian. His 2006 Dolce and Gabana campaign shoot with Missy Rayder – Erotica –features some of the most explicit images to appear in fashion photography. 

Missy Rayder in 2006 Dolce and Gabana campaign 'Erotica'

After studying painting at the Rhode Island School of Design, he moved into the field of photography. Klein shot high-profile advertising campaigns for various clients including Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Nike and is a regular contributor to magazines including American and Paris Vogue, i-D, Numéro, W and Arena.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1083795 2016-08-24T20:34:55Z 2016-08-24T20:36:22Z Postmodernism, style and subversion: BBC videdo

What does Grace Jones' maternity dress have in common with a Day-Glo toaster and a chair made from a gas pipe? Sarfraz Manzoor meets co-curators Jane Pavitt and Glenn Adamson, architect Charles Jencks and ceramicist Carol McNicoll at the Postmodernism: Style and Subversion 1970-1990 exhibition at the Victoria & Albert in London to find out. The exhibition ran from 2010-2011.


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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1083394 2016-08-23T14:12:11Z 2016-09-03T12:30:48Z Models of Postmodern Eroticism

Models of Postmodern Eroticism

The turn to the post-Newton, postmodern, erotic sensibility in fashion photography is not just a matter of the photographers, but of the willingness of the models to push the boundaries of acceptability and taste. Not everyone is prepared to go down this route: you will struggle to find even a topless photograph of Claudia Schiffer online, and when you do it’s of her as an 18-year old model cadet.

Pioneers: Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova, Elle Macpherson (X2), Cindy Crawford (X2), Christy Turlington and a more sedate Claudia Schiffer

But Schiffer rapidly reached a stage where she could say ‘no’. Most other models do not have that choice today if they want to work. Nowadays it’s pretty routine for models to attend a casting call and wear only a thong, whatever the shoot is going to be. Still, back in the day things weren’t like that and it took a bold few to step out and be prepared to go all – or most – of the way.

To trace how and when it was done you have to look at the emergence of the first supermodels in the 1980s and what that meant. These were people like Elle Macpherson, Naomi Campbell, Christie Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Claudia Schiffer. Their emergence marked a new stage in fashion where the mass diffusion of images was as, or more, important than runway shows. At the same time fashion photography started to be just as much about the models as the clothes and accessories. Fashion photography, and semi-nudity in runway shows, marked a new sensuality and voyeurism in fashion – and with voyeurism goes narcissism as well.Fashion models became stars revered for their beauty in general and their bodies in particular. Elle Macpherson was known as ‘The Body’. And they experimented with shapes; in the early ‘90s most got breast implants, and mainly had them removed again.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1082862 2016-08-21T14:32:14Z 2016-10-10T14:39:50Z Big Nudes 4 - The postmodern eroticism of David LaChapelle

Continuing our series on how the 'children' of Helmut Newton took over fashion photography

By Ariel Sixsmith

After the Deluge

David LaChapelle is the doyen of postmodern photography, and a key bridge between the generation of Helmut Newton and today’s fashion photographers, despite being only occasionally a fashion photographer himself.

Nearly single-handedly, LaChapelle has made photography the postmodern art form par excellence. The advent of digital technology has made Photoshopped alteration normal. LaChapelle’s artworks are not really ‘photos‘ at all. They rework ‘reality’ into an artistic statement, a flourish of his vivid imagination.

LaChapelle’s work resumes all the aspects of postmodernism in art – parody, pastiche, bricolage, intertextuality and transgression. Famous parodies/pastiches include his reworking of Boticelli’s Birth of Venus featuring Czech model Hana Soukupova; The Rape of Africa, featuring Naomi Campbell which is a reworking of Boticelli’s Venus and Mars; and Jesus Is My Homeboy, a parody of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper.


Birth of Venus, the Rape of Africa and Jesus is My Homeboy

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1080687 2016-08-12T15:18:09Z 2016-08-24T20:20:55Z BIG NUDES 3 - Mikael Jansson, Terry Richardson and David Bellemere

Part 3 of our series on the 'children' of Helmut Newton

Mikael Jansson

Mikael Jansson is a leading fashion photographer/director currently living in London and working worldwide. During the mid-nineties he gained notoriety creating epic features for some of the leading avant-garde publications of the era. He is renowned for his technical prowess and emotionally charged images, spanning across all genres.

Among his influences he credits legendary master photographer Richard Avedon who he worked with in the late eighties. Mikael Jansson's spirit of adventure and travel has taken him to spectacular locations around the world on assignment for publications such as W Magazine, Vogue, Vogue Paris and Vogue Nippon.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1079215 2016-08-06T18:49:07Z 2016-08-10T14:58:55Z BIG NUDES PART 2 - Sorrenti, Testino, Inez and Vinoodh
The second part of our series on the 'children'' of Helmut Newton. Next week: Terry Richardson, David Bellemere, Mikael Jansson and John Rankin. Forthcoming: Mert and Marcus, Steven Klein, Luigi and Iango, Ellen von Unwerth and David LaChapelle.

Mario Sorrenti


From top Left: Models: 1 and 2 Arizona Muse, 3 Saskia de Brauw, 4 Guinevere van Seenus, 5 Paz de la Huerta, 6,7, 8, 9 and 10 Anja Rubik, 11 Andreea Diaconu, 12 Magdalena Frackowiak, 13 Mario Sorrenti with Kate Moss

Mario Sorrenti (born 24 October 1971) is a photographer and director best known for his spreads of nude models in the pages of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. 

Sorrenti has had exhibitions in London (Victoria and Albert Museum), Paris, Monaco and New York (Museum of Modern Art). He has undertaken campaigns and directed commercials for Calvin Klein, and has shot Kate Moss for the Calvin Klein Obsession ads. He has also worked for Lancôme, Paco Rabanne, Benetton and Pirelli Calendar 2012. He is currently signed exclusively with the agency Art Partners.

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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1077629 2016-07-31T13:31:47Z 2016-08-03T19:04:05Z BIG NUDES – How the children of Helmut Newton took over fashion photography (part one)

Marcella Ducaine

The major change in the sensibility of fashion photography came in the 1970s-80s with the work of Helmut Newton. Newton was a boy in 1930s Germany and influenced by black and white photojournalism of the time, but mainly by surrealism.

Adriana Giotta (left)and Bridgette Nielson by Helmut Newton

Surrealism meant an exaggeration of reality, a transformation of reality, the use of reality as a starting point to create a new and imagined reality. But of course the main thing Newton is known for is eroticism, for shocking nudes (more shocking then than now). That Newton could push fashion photography in this direction was a sign of the times, a more open attitude to public displays of erotic imagery.

Newton's immediate contemporaries and successors were Guy Bourdin and Chris von Wangenheim. Rebecca Arnold , an academic at the Courtyard Institute, has referred to Newton, Bourdin and von Wangenheim as representing 'decadent couture' photography who brought violence and eroticism to glossy fashion magazines. This would have been impossible without major changes to public sensibilities about erotic display – although this was never uncontested.

Chris von Wangenheim
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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1072420 2016-07-13T14:38:13Z 2016-08-08T18:16:00Z New research confirms Brazilian and Hollywood are the new normal

Charlie Le Mindu - London Fashion Week S/S 2010 from Audi on Vimeo.

Despite attempts to claim that pubic hair grooming is declining and the bush is making a comeback, the biggest survey yet, by the University of California San Francisco, has confirmed that pubic hair removal is the new normal – especially among women under 50.

The researchers surveyed 3,372 women between the ages of 18 and 65 residing in the US. The participants were broadly representative in terms of age and racial diversity

What were the basic results?

Overall, 83.8% of women reported a history of pubic hair grooming, and 16.2% reported having no history of pubic grooming. The mean frequency was monthly.

More than 60% had removed all their public hair 5 times or more. Among 18-30 year olds this figure went up to 85%.

When asked about the situations for which they groom, common reasons were for sex (56%), holidays (46%), and visits to the doctor (40%). In most cases preparations for doctor’s visits involved total hair removal. This marks a fascinating turnaround. Many women would be embarrassed for a doctor to see them with pubic hair. Twenty or thirty years ago, women would have been embarrassed to present without pubic hair.

The survey is another confirmation of the arguments on this site by Gemma Vicenza

Fashion models Missy Rayder, Candice Boucher and Maritza Veer

See the Daily News account of this report, click here


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tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1066516 2016-06-24T00:38:02Z 2016-09-08T16:50:07Z Lady Gaga ~ Applause ]]> tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1066515 2016-06-24T00:31:10Z 2016-06-24T00:39:40Z Shakira and Rihanna ~ Can't Remember to Forget You ]]> tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1066514 2016-06-24T00:21:03Z 2016-09-08T16:50:12Z Christina Aguilera, Lil' Kim, Mya, Pink - Lady Marmalade ]]> tag:icmposthavencom.posthaven.com,2013:Post/1066322 2016-06-23T15:43:14Z 2016-06-23T15:45:19Z Jeff Montes, Resolver, Amsterdam fashion week Jan 2016 ]]>